Michael drives. I dream. The early morning fog wraps us in a blanket of soft gray mist as we head west to a Shangri-La dream in a utopian valley at the western edge of the Texas Hill Country - a whisper of earth that cradles the magical world of The Laurel Tree, A Guest Table Bistro.
The first time I set foot on the grounds of the Laurel Tree and walked through its doors, I was enchanted by the warmth. The décor. The joy - and of course, there is the food, and I can’t wait. Chef Laurel Waters was trained in France and brings the farm to the table. Everything is always fresh and seasonal.
Seated at a table for two in a bistro that would be at home in the French Countryside, we are handed a Prix Fixe Menu, showing us today’s selections. Of the four courses listed, we have a choice of two entrées. I read the descriptions, and within the blink of an eye, I know what I want.
The amuse-bouche before us is a dark, intense black olive tapenade, served with freshly made, light, and crisp crostini. I want champagne, but the Laurel Tree is a BYOB establishment, and today we decided to try being alcohol free for lunch. I’m not sure we made the right decision.
Seconds after the table is cleared of our bite-sized appetizer, the soup course, lightly curried cauliflower accompanied by a tiny pumpkin muffin, arrives. There are lemon slices on the table, and Michael urges me to try a few drops in my soup. He believes a touch of lemon makes all soups better. Then he asks, “Did you find the bacon?”
“Bacon?” Looking under the rim of my bowl, filled with golden soup, I discover a strip of caramelized bacon. I taste a spoonful of the savory cauliflower soup, redolent with undercurrents of Indian spices, and take a small bite of bacon. Placing my spoon back in the bowl, I tell Michael, “Laurel Waters is brilliant!”
The combination of the silky, savory soup and the sweet, crisp bacon is the yin and yang of flavors and textures. I feel as if I have made an important discovery in food pairings - still believing champagne would be a perfect foil…something we sadly neglected to bring.
For our entrée, Michael ordered the chicken breast, and I chose the sweet potato lasagna topped with shrimp. Michael doesn’t offer me a bite of his chicken, and after tasting the lasagna, I intend to hoard what is mine. I am blown away. How can sweet potatoes, kale, spinach, and smoked mozzarella be this decadent? And the shrimp are grilled to perfection.
Laurel stops by to say hello, and the first words that spill from my lips are, “Laurel, you are brilliant. The flavor combinations that you use are inspired, and the sweet potato lasagna is as rich as Croesus! How can something with such humble ingredients be this decadently delicious!” She smiles and says it is one of her favorite entrees.
Michael and I are both satisfied, but we know dessert is on its way - a cookie. When the “cookie” is set before us, I realize I am in for a real treat. It is a small, blonde-brownie tart studded with almonds, toffee, and cranberries, crowned with a perfect swirl of orange-flavored whipped cream and dusted with green pistachios --- it is delicious.
I want to sit and linger over my sparkling water, but Michael looks at his watch, then he looks at me. Home is over hill and dale, through the woods, along the river, and one hundred and thirty miles away. It is time to say goodbye.
Texas-born Laurel Waters earned Le Grand Diplome in Cuisine, Pastry, and Wine from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. From there, she worked at two Michelin-starred restaurants in Provence, including Alain Ducasse’s Provencal Farmhouse. She returned to Texas, building her restaurant on her parents' ranch in Utopia, Texas - The Laurel Tree Restaurant - a legit culinary treasure - definitely worth the hunt.
(Charlotte Caldwell loves Texas. She has explored every corner of the state and has been on more back roads and in more small Texas towns than anyone could imagine. A lover of music, live theater, cooking, entertaining, history, traveling and writing - she has written a cookbook about the art of picnicking – as well as eight additional books about her adventures. ([email protected]; www.charlottestexashillcountry.com)
